Lab-Grown / Synthetic Diamonds | Responsible Diamonds

(Stella McCartney, 2024)

Lab-Grown / Synthetic Diamonds

As seen by guests of Stella McCartney at the 2024 Met Gala, lab-grown diamonds are becoming mainstream.

Diamond alternatives appear as the ‘real’ thing to the naked eye, otherwise known as imitation diamonds or simulated diamonds. Unrelated to diamond on an atomic level, simulants currently available on the market include:

Moissanite (a man-made gem which can sometimes pass diamond testers because of its high thermal conductivity, also present in diamond) (Do Amore, n.d.).
Cubic Zirconia (artificially crystallised Zirconium Dioxide) (Simon G. Fine Jewellery, 2020).
Swarovski crystals (precision-cut crystal glass with lead oxide, man-made in Austria with a machine invented by Daniel Swarovski) (Diamond Rocks, n.d.).

However lab-grown, otherwise known as synthetic diamonds have infiltrated the diamond supply chain which contrary to belief can be classified as legitimate duplicates. It is said some experts cannot tell the difference between them and their natural counterparts as they have the same molecular structure, hardness and refractive index but are made above ground in ‘diamond growing greenhouses’ in a much shorter time frame.

In a survey, 42.1% of respondents did not know that lab-grown and naturally mined diamonds were the same. However despite this, 84.2% of respondents believed that lab-grown diamonds were not as valuable as natural diamonds.

Geologist Dusan Simic explains “from a gemologist point of view, there really is no difference,” and was one of the first to discover there has been 5% of synthetic stones mixed with natural melee (very small diamonds sold in parcels) as part of AG&J in 2013 (Kohn, 2022). Jewellery designer, Aja Raden supports this claim by saying “synthetic diamonds have leaked into the natural diamond market, they’re saying 1% may be in the form of melee, it’s more like 20% and nobody is even saying what % of larger diamonds are lab-grown” (Kohn, 2022).

The term ‘lab-grown’ has become a marketing strategy for companies such as James Allen, Olive Ave and Pandora. To the industry's surprise, diamond tycoon De Beers has implemented their Lightbox venture of lab-grown diamonds developed by Element Six to counteract growing competition in the space.

Are you aware that naturally mined and lab-grown / synthetic diamonds are chemically the same?

Do you believe lab-grown diamonds are as valuable as natural diamonds?

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(AG&J, 2013)

At first glance, it’s fair to say lab-grown diamonds get you more value for money as shown in the following examples:

(Pandora, n.d.)

(De Beers Group, n.d.)

The Washington Monument (1885)

(Nealy, 1884).

(National Park Service, n.d.).

(Library of Congress, 1920-1950)

Ernest Jones. (n.d.)

Contrary to its marketing, the production of lab-grown diamonds has repercussions on the environment, “on average, producing one polished carat of lab-grown diamond releases 511kg of greenhouse gases, more than three times that of one polished carat of mined diamond. To put this into perspective, the typical US household produces 48 metric tons (48,000kg) of greenhouse gases each year” (Butcher, n.d.).

As natural diamonds are a finite resource, the materials for man made diamonds are greater and can create a wider supply with less impact on our immediate surroundings on Earth, “producing diamonds in a lab is also far less damaging to ecosystems, wildlife, and human populations than mining diamonds” (Butcher, n.d.). On the other hand, some argue the introduction of lab-grown diamonds makes the rarity and therefore value of the diamond industry as a whole questionable.

John Janik of Xtropy Lab-Grown Diamonds studied crystal properties and would make his own lab-grown diamonds at a carat a day. He explains that Aluminium was once one of the most expensive materials of the time and used on top of the world’s tallest building (of that time), the Washington Monument in 1885 for this reason - to show status and perhaps, ego. Now, Aluminium is an everyday commodity and Janik believes diamonds await the same fate (Kohn, 2022).

In an article in the Fair Observer, diamonds would be better suited for industrial use in diamond transistor technology, “95% semiconductors make use of silicon, diamond is a much better alternative to it”. Adding, “being the hardest natural material, diamond stands five times more heat than silicon… The semiconductor industry, currently valued at over $500 billion, is expected to more than double by 2030” (Garg, 2023). Is there more money to be made and a greater purpose in the semiconductor industry?

How To Create Lab-Grown Diamonds

Creating a lab-grown diamond is incredibly energy intensive, the most popular two methods to grow the stones are: HPHT (High Pressure High Temperature) or CVD (Chemical Vapour Deposition). According to a writer at the IGC (International Gem Society), “Both HPHT and CVD involve reaching temperatures over 800º C and pressures up to 70,000 atm. Usually, the energy to accomplish this comes from fossil and other non-renewable fuels” (Butcher, n.d.).

(MiaDonna, 2023)

(IGI - International Gemological Institute of India, 2023)

If more synthetic diamond companies can follow the likes of Pandora, Lightbox and Diamond Foundry and use renewable energy sources within their production, this gives lab-grown diamonds an opportunity for long-term commercial success in the eyes of those who care about the environment but also human rights.

For those using CVD technology, this is an opportunity for the brand to showcase their environmentally-friendly practices which can attract a further customer base. Pandora’s website reads “since August 2022, all Pandora Lab-Grown Diamonds have been grown, cut and polished using 100% renewable energy” (Pandora, n.d.). Their Pandora Group website also highlights their work towards causes such as being neutral in their operations and their commitment to aligning with the UN Guiding Principles on Business and Human Rights (UNGPs). It seems the brand is becoming more aligned with their target audience through partnering with Pamela Anderson as an ambassador, and sponsoring the British Fashion Council to host the annual Fashion Awards in order to be perceived as more high-fashion. This shows the ‘cool’ thing to do can be to pick the most sustainable option where possible.

(British Fashion Council, 2023)

HPHT (High Pressure High Temperature)

As suggested by the name, HPHT diamonds are “formed by subjecting carbon to extreme pressure and high temperatures, which replicates the natural conditions as to how diamonds are formed in nature”. This method can take months to reach the desired carat weight (MiaDonna, 2023).

(Pandora Group, n.d.)

CVD (Chemical Vapour Deposition)

Based on analysis, both Pandora and Lightbox (a De Beers venture) grow diamonds using CVD which uses a low pressure environment to create a diamond rough. This method can produce a diamond in just a few weeks and is therefore cheaper and more environmentally friendly (MiaDonna, 2023). However, if a laboratory is using renewable energy sources then this is not an issue.

“Lab-grown diamond seeds are loaded into a CVD reactor. Then, a mix of gases containing carbon is added at a very low pressure. Microwaves are added to heat the gases and generate a plasma. When the temperatures climb over several thousand degrees, the gas molecules break apart and carbon atoms bond to the seeds, growing them one layer at a time. Once the stones are big enough (about 2 weeks for one carat) they can then be cut and polished” (Lightbox Jewelry, n.d.).

In the past, Simic proposed labelling synthetic diamonds with a UV coating that glows fluorescent pink under a blue light (Kohn, 2022). In the present day, a way to verify if a diamond is naturally mined or lab-grown is through reviewing the diamond's certificate inscription under a microscope; “lab-grown diamonds will be marked ‘lab-grown’ or ‘LG’... Gem scientists are able to tell the difference using advanced magnification, fluorescence and laser techniques” (Do Amore, n.d.).

(New Grown Diamond, 2020)

Pro’s

Marketed as conflict-free and socially responsible.
Typically 30-40% cheaper than synthetic diamonds (Olive Ave, n.d.).
Some companies create diamonds using renewable energy (for example, via solar panels) which is a positive practice.
Lab-grown diamonds have perfect 4C’s, therefore considered more visually appealing. Buyers can upgrade the diamonds 4C’s for cheaper costs.
Scientifically ‘real’ diamonds as they have the same molecular structure.
There is a consumer demand for guaranteed ethical and conflict-free diamonds with the introduction of the new 2C’s, which is promised through lab-grown diamonds.
Lab-grown diamonds are becoming more mainstream after being spotted at the 2024 Met Gala on guests with Stella McCartney.
Safer work environments for employees producing diamonds.
Any imminent environmental hazard is non-existent.
Oversaturation of synthetics in the market doesn’t need to pose a threat as there is potential for revenue to be made in the diamond transistor / semiconductor industry.
Preferred for informal wear in a survey due to: buyers not finding the method of diamond growing important, cost, fewer imperfections and not being worried about losing something of great value.

For informal wear, which would you prefer?

Con’s

By adding more mass-produced synthetic diamonds on the market, this decreases the rarity of diamonds and in turn the perceived value of the overall industry. With more synthetic diamonds in circulation, they face the potential fate of becoming an everyday commodity.
Helps combat the trade of conflict diamonds and relieves any customer concern of its origin with source assurance at scale.
Considered less valuable for special occasion jewellery (e.g. engagement rings).
Lab diamonds dont have the same level of transparency in the supply chain as natural diamonds (Davies, 2023).
Less environmentally disruptive but does have environmental impacts. A vast amount of electricity is required to produce a lab-grown diamond. It is a form of greenwashing if companies are not using renewable energy sources for diamond growth but claim lab-grown diamonds as a better alternative. If a diamond is made using fossil fuels, it may release more Carbon Dioxide than a typical mined diamond (Alicat Scientific, n.d.).
Customers would not want a synthetic diamond if natural diamonds weren’t valuable.